Gonpher Coughie

The weather here in Burgundy has been unseasonably warm of late. So why not take advantage of it, I asked myself, especially since Sundays are so slow and I have cabin fever?

So it was into the saddle and off to the center of town.  Mattieu’s bar is open to catch a few late season tourists. Its too hot for a cup of coffee, so I settle for : A Corsican beer. It nicely complements the color of my saddle, don’t you think? Beer drunk, I ride up into the upper village, passing through the street in front of Philippe LeClerc’s winery: Philippe and his family have decorated the entire street with hanging geraniums and potted shrubs.

Further on toward the church I catch myself in a mirror. I’ll turn right here and pass by St; Aignan, our eleventh (or is it twelfth) century church. A recent face lift has it looking nice. The oldest part of our village is around the church, and there are some buildings which date to the twelfth ( or maybe eleventh) centuries. Records are spotty going back that far, although there are some records going back even further.

Patrick Gouroux’s house, shown here, is NOT old. But it sure looks old. Patrick is a stone cutter who works with his dad. In his spare time he built this house using his skill to make it look like it is old, but keeping the interior modern.

Just at the end of the street where Patrick lives is the place de le chateau. The chateau was bought by a wealthy Chinese casino owner and he has hired architects and workment to re-build to its former glory.  One of the towers was on the verge of collapse, and is now shrouded to protect the work going on.

At the top of the village are vines and they are in their fall colors. 

I cost back down the hill to my favorite spot to look out over the village. From a picnic table on the Route des Grands Crus, I can see most of Gevrey spread out below.  The “new” village hall with its bell tower can be seen over the vineyards.

I stopped on my way back home to take a look at this: The black object above the plaque is the remains of an artillery shell fired by the German army on November 30, 1870. We tend to forget that France has been at war with its neighbor more than just during the two World Wars. The shell was defused and replaced in the wall where it had stuck during the battle! Lets hope it doesn’t happen again.

Date: Oct. 14

Kilometers ridden: 9

Old fogy from France. Rides bikes and eats.

8 response to "Gonpher Coughie"

  1. By: Kathleen Jones Posted: October 16, 2018

    Fall! I was admiring the fall vineyards where I drove to my ride yesterday. Thanks for the tour. Beer is a the best coffee I think.

    • By: Bikerdockeith Posted: October 20, 2018

      Hi Kathleen,
      Alcohol and caffeine, my two favorite drugs (in moderation, of course!).

  2. By: Rich-Illinois Posted: October 17, 2018

    Interesting tour.
    Looking at the streets, there is no litter to be seen anywhere! Nice!
    The Winery street is really something, beautiful.

    • By: Bikerdockeith Posted: October 20, 2018

      Hi Rich,
      One of the nice things about my country is the general lack of litter. It does happen, but there is enough push by the government and enough infrastructure to make it both easy to dispose of things properly and generally frowned on by one’s fellows not to. Philippe has done remarkable things for the village, even though he doesn’t have to. We are al grateful for his civic pride.

  3. By: NancyG Posted: October 17, 2018

    Delightful picturesque trip through your area. Love those old, and not so old, buildings.

    • By: Bikerdockeith Posted: October 20, 2018

      Hi Nancy,
      One of the reasons we like it here is the old stuff. The older building seem to have mellowed into the landscape.

  4. By: Tony Cullimore Posted: October 19, 2018

    Great to be reminded that other countries have visible deep history. 11th – 12th Century buildings indeed. After my first 5 years in Sydney, Aus we tripped back to the UK and really noticed the old buildings and the history surrounding them.

    Deep history here is less easily accessible. 60,000 + years BP inhabited and the history before the last 200 years is in the landforms. rock art and the indigenous peoples minds.

    • By: Bikerdockeith Posted: October 20, 2018

      Hi Tony,
      Yes, deep history fascinates us too. But not to be too euro-centric the deeper (pre)history of other regions is also fascinating. Curiously, the oldest object in my possession is a stone spear point I found in field in Minnesota.


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